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Smokin' Performance | Forum | Mustang Garage | Mechanical | Tech Questions | Drivetrain | Suspension | rear wheel lug studs 0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: rear wheel lug studs  (Read 1076 times)
asdfghjkl
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« on: March 19, 2009, 11:30:14 PM »

can anybody help replace lug studs?
I've got two adjacent studs that are *ucked on my rear passenger side.
one is stripped and the other is completely snapped have way.
i'm crazy b/c I've been driving like this.... but i need them replaced for sure
before next fast friday. LMK.... help me out
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« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2009, 11:39:44 PM »

J.B. Weld does the trick for me and if you cheap use some duct tape.
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red_mach1
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« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2009, 11:48:21 PM »

white boy alex replaced the 1s on my car
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asdfghjkl
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« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2009, 11:55:38 PM »

u suppose to be working right now
que viva valspar
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red_mach1
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« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2009, 11:57:43 PM »

hahaha........im at work an i might work sumtime b4 i go home
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Slow ass auto mach 1 with a Heaton swap
new times in ennis 4/9/10
R/T=.084    60'=1.747
1/8=   7.610 @   92.32
1/4=  11.824 @ 117.33
asdfghjkl
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« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2009, 11:59:39 PM »


don't sniff too much paint tonight evil laugh
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asdfghjkl
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« Reply #6 on: March 20, 2009, 12:07:07 AM »

white boy alex replaced the 1s on my car

 ask him tonight what all is involved....... i was taking a look at it earlier today and i'm thinking
i can just remove the caliper, rotor, and dust gaurd to get enough access to pop them out and
press new ones in. When i replaced one stud on driiver's front side, there was a void in the dust shield
so it was easier.
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red_mach1
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« Reply #7 on: March 20, 2009, 12:07:57 AM »

yea it be the same thing
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Slow ass auto mach 1 with a Heaton swap
new times in ennis 4/9/10
R/T=.084    60'=1.747
1/8=   7.610 @   92.32
1/4=  11.824 @ 117.33
asdfghjkl
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« Reply #8 on: March 20, 2009, 12:09:40 AM »

tell white boy alejandro to stop fucking around and join this site
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red_mach1
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« Reply #9 on: March 20, 2009, 12:10:41 AM »

that bitch workin rite now but i ask him when i c him............hahaha the wife wont let him, i think
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Slow ass auto mach 1 with a Heaton swap
new times in ennis 4/9/10
R/T=.084    60'=1.747
1/8=   7.610 @   92.32
1/4=  11.824 @ 117.33
asdfghjkl
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« Reply #10 on: March 20, 2009, 12:11:40 AM »

 Shocked
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red_mach1
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« Reply #11 on: March 20, 2009, 12:15:53 AM »

what u doin???
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Slow ass auto mach 1 with a Heaton swap
new times in ennis 4/9/10
R/T=.084    60'=1.747
1/8=   7.610 @   92.32
1/4=  11.824 @ 117.33
Mauricio
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« Reply #12 on: March 20, 2009, 12:19:09 AM »

thats exactly how you do it,
there ain't nothing to it.

Remove wheel
Remove Caliper and bracket
Remove Rotor
and hit them hoes hard
pop new ones in and you're done
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red_mach1
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« Reply #13 on: March 20, 2009, 12:27:25 AM »

u gotta have sum guevos 2 knock em out tho
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Slow ass auto mach 1 with a Heaton swap
new times in ennis 4/9/10
R/T=.084    60'=1.747
1/8=   7.610 @   92.32
1/4=  11.824 @ 117.33
Mauricio
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« Reply #14 on: March 20, 2009, 12:35:35 AM »

u gotta have sum guevos 2 knock em out tho


He can rent them at Autozone
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« Reply #15 on: March 20, 2009, 12:45:00 AM »

thats exactly how you do it,
there ain't nothing to it.

Remove wheel
Remove Caliper and bracket
Remove Rotor
and hit them hoes hard
pop new ones in and you're done

I'd rather do it my way and JB WELD.
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Mauricio
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« Reply #16 on: March 20, 2009, 12:53:51 AM »

I'd rather do it my way and JB WELD.


Jake, you're a fucking redneck
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« Reply #17 on: March 20, 2009, 12:58:21 AM »

Jake, you're a fucking redneck

I know.

I actually decided that JB weld can do anything after it fixed a leak in my air compressor that got stolen. A hole anout the size f a .22 bullet and JB welded that bitch up and it probably still works.
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red_mach1
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« Reply #18 on: March 20, 2009, 01:00:30 AM »

haha.......he said it "probably still works"

he aint that sure so ben better not do it that way
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Slow ass auto mach 1 with a Heaton swap
new times in ennis 4/9/10
R/T=.084    60'=1.747
1/8=   7.610 @   92.32
1/4=  11.824 @ 117.33
06iornhorse
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« Reply #19 on: March 20, 2009, 01:52:33 AM »

Bigmoe is right easy if you have air tools but real simple all the same
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asdfghjkl
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« Reply #20 on: March 20, 2009, 08:20:05 PM »

I'd rather do it my way and JB WELD.

 i swear this guy makes this site look like a joke
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« Reply #21 on: March 21, 2009, 02:32:34 AM »

i swear this guy makes this site look like a joke

Naw it'll work just make sure you get the lug nut on there tight.
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« Reply #22 on: March 22, 2009, 12:03:21 AM »

Its not that bad to do. Just do it right so you only have to fuck with it once.
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Jon
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« Reply #23 on: March 22, 2009, 12:32:09 AM »

Naw it'll work just make sure you get the lug nut on there tight.

Jake I don't think you know what you're talking about
because all the stuff you posted makes you seem retarded
I you would just stay out of the Tech Forums
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mavsfan
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« Reply #24 on: March 22, 2009, 12:54:04 AM »

MOST IMPORTANTLY ---- do exactly as Moe says, but when you go to put the new ones in, you are going to have clearance issues. In all actuality, you would have to take of the damn axle, but get it positioned to the hole, use a hammer and knock in in just a little, just enough so that you can pull it in straight.

When you go to pull it through the hub, make sure you line up the grooves inside the hub with those on the stud. You can fuck up the stud that way and you will never be able to pull it all the way through, to pull it flush. This is very important.
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« Reply #25 on: March 22, 2009, 01:02:22 AM »

the replacement studs come with a small part cut off on the head of the stud to clear axles  Wink
they sell them at autozone for less than $2 bucks
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« Reply #26 on: March 22, 2009, 01:29:31 AM »

yeah, and those are the exact same ones I bought and they still dont have the clearance
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« Reply #27 on: March 22, 2009, 01:29:56 AM »

Jake I don't think you know what you're talking about
because all the stuff you posted makes you seem retarded
I you would just stay out of the Tech Forums

Haha I was throwing in my redneck since
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mavsfan
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« Reply #28 on: March 22, 2009, 01:31:15 AM »

well if you were giving your two cents worth, do you want your change???
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Better get ready cause I'm a comin'!!
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« Reply #29 on: March 22, 2009, 01:32:37 AM »

well if you were giving your two cents worth, do you want your change???

Naw it's ok I got enough to go around.
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« Reply #30 on: March 22, 2009, 11:03:50 AM »

yeah, and those are the exact same ones I bought and they still dont have the clearance


Tried grinding a little more material off the head yet?
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Jon
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« Reply #31 on: March 22, 2009, 03:09:47 PM »

its easy ben i did mine not knowing how, its pretty straight forward , its pretty much like u planned it
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« Reply #32 on: March 22, 2009, 05:50:23 PM »

Tried grinding a little more material off the head yet?


There was no  need. All you have to do is get the stud positioned towards the hole and then slightly tap it into the hole, and then you will get the clearance around the sudt shield and all that and you can just pull it through the hole, but must make sure that you line up the grooves so that you don't essentially "cross thread" the stud.
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RIP my 2002 GT..........
New project started - 2001 GT - White ---- Soon to be completed.

Better get ready cause I'm a comin'!!
asdfghjkl
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« Reply #33 on: March 22, 2009, 06:15:13 PM »

the one time i bought a stud replacement from vato zone and replaced a front drivers side stud i didn't have any clearance issues.
this will be my first with removing a rear brake caliper..... alex once told me i don't need a "special" tool in order to compress the brake pad piston.
grinding off a stud won't work in my case.... one stud completely snapped in half where stud exists rotor, and the other stud has stripped threading
half way on stud shaft. i plan on knocking it out some time this week so i can install my fucking mickey thompsons and go look for meat
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« Reply #34 on: March 23, 2009, 01:37:28 PM »

the one time i bought a stud replacement from vato zone and replaced a front drivers side stud i didn't have any clearance issues.
this will be my first with removing a rear brake caliper..... alex once told me i don't need a "special" tool in order to compress the brake pad piston.
grinding off a stud won't work in my case.... one stud completely snapped in half where stud exists rotor, and the other stud has stripped threading
half way on stud shaft. i plan on knocking it out some time this week so i can install my fucking mickey thompsons and go look for meat


If you stripped the threading in the axle, then you could be in a problem. And no you do not need a special tool to compress the pistons. Find something flat and metal, and get a pair of channel locks and put the plate against the pistons and then compress them back into the caliper.

I would make sure those studs are in 100% the right way, cause the torque and the use of MT's puts lots of pressure on those rear wheels, and don't want your tire snapping off.
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RIP my 2002 GT..........
New project started - 2001 GT - White ---- Soon to be completed.

Better get ready cause I'm a comin'!!
Mauricio
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« Reply #35 on: March 23, 2009, 04:31:45 PM »

The main issue is really the clearance with the ABS ring, but like i said the replacement studs from Autozone clear just fine
We are talking about a 1 hour job even for an inexperience person
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